Chaqueta sastre: Un análisis técnico de la transformación de la chaqueta sastre femenina.

Abstract

This research analyzes the technical and structural transformation of the women's tailored jacket in five decades: 1890, 1920, 1940, 1980 and 2020, considering the identification of changes in pattern-making methods, tailoring processes and constructive characteristics of this garment. A qualitative approach with emphasis on comparison is used, which articulates data collection strategies: specialized bibliographic review, qualitative observation, descriptive data sheets based on Roland Barthes' “three dresses” model (dress-image, dress-written and dress-real), pattern-making, cutting and fitting data sheets, and semi-structured interviews with design and tailoring experts. Among the main findings, significant transformations in the number of structural parts, silhouette and fitting systems are identified, which evidence a progressive technical simplification driven by industrialization and digital technologies. At the same time, there is a tension between the preservation of artisanal techniques and adaptation to contemporary production processes, which poses the challenge of balancing the value of traditional knowledge with the demands of efficiency and standardization of today's industry, especially in clothing and tailoring. The conclusions highlight the importance of documenting and revaluing traditional sartorial knowledge in the construction of women's tailored jackets, as well as promoting a critical integration between tradition and innovation in the design process. This study provides the field of clothing design with a methodological basis for the technical research of iconic garments and contributes to the strengthening of professional training in women's tailoring.