Método de patronaje inclusivo de prendas básicas para personas con acondroplasia integrando el diseño adaptativo

Abstract

In the Ecuadorian textile sector, the production of clothing is based on standardized sizing systems that do not consider body diversity, especially in people with achondroplasia, and this shows that there is a lack of pattern-making methods that are truly inclusive and adapted to their physical characteristics. This research aimed to develop an inclusive pattern-making method for basic garments using the rectangle-by-construction technique, integrating adaptive design to improve the fit and comfort for people of short stature. A mixed exploratory and descriptive approach was employed with a sample of 15 people with achondroplasia from the Short Stature Sports Association in the city of Quito, 2 specialist endocrinologists, 4 pattern designers, and 4 professional tailors, using semistructured interviews, a comparison matrix of pattern-making methods, and an anthropometric measurement sheet to collect precise data on the users' body dimensions. The results showed that traditional pattern-making systems do not work for people with different proportions, such as those with achondroplasia, resulting in deficiencies in fit and comfort; in contrast, the proposed rectangular method allowed for the structuring of more adaptable patterns, improving mobility, comfort, and correspondence with the user's actual measurements. It is concluded that implementing an inclusive pattern-making method using rectangles by construction is a good alternative that can improve textile design, helping to create more accessible and inclusive clothing that better adapts to body diversity in the Ecuadorian context.